Trip Update #3

July 16

I have one more day in Paris (today), then I will spend three days and two nights seeing my former host family in Geneva, as well as visiting my old haunts there. I also hope to do some research in Geneva on my thesis, after all, it is the capital of the world when it comes to this kind of stuff.

I've run into a few roadblocks this past week... everyone seems to have gone on vacation this week or the last, and thus, many people with whom I wanted to talk have been gone. I have gotten good contact information from many of these offices, including the Office of Integration and City Policy. Upon many of my contacts' returns from vacation, I will send emails out and hopefully get a response back from them shortly. Like I said in my last update, I am trying to do things here in Paris that I couldn't do at home... unfortunately, I may have to do some of my interviews back in Kent by email. Not as personal, not as fun, but effective, nonetheless.

But despite my difficulty in getting interviews, I have been able to get a good amount of reading done. Along with reading the news everyday, I went to the Arab World Institute, a giant structure in the middle of the Paris center... they had a lot of interesting reading material, and so for a couple of hours I perused their selection, and wrote down some good books to pick up when I get home through OhioLink.

Me on the roof of the Arab World Institute

I've also conducted three interviews, with two more on the way today, with three students. One was Iranian, an immigrant, and she helped me to better see the immigrant perspective... for example, opening a bank account was very difficult for her... she needed to open one to get her "green card" (carte de séjour)... but they wouldn't let her open one without a green card!

She said that all foreigners, not just Muslims, encouter racism around the country... indeed, I think many French are still tied up in the idea of one pure "Gaul" identity or race, which of course doesn't exist (see my friend Paurav's interesting dissection of this at his blog: http://jatwarrior.wordpress.com/2010/07/12/ethnicity-think-you-understand-it/). The Gauls can trace their roots back to the Celts, way back in the early AD years... but beyond that, "French" or "Gaulois" doesn't mean much.

I also had a good chat with my friend Jean, who goes to the Political Science school in Bordeaux and who went to Kent on an exchange program in the fall of 2008 and spring of 2009. He came up with his girlfriend for about a week, and we had several good discussions about my thesis, and about French culture, etc.

One of the things I am realizing this thesis is developing into is a discussion of the interplay between identities, the dominant one of the state versus the minority one.... how identities compete, gel, work together to form society and culture... this has been a fascinating exposé for me. I am excited to dive into this world of literature, see what I can find.

I am also toying with the idea of how and why policies are introduced at different times. I am beginning to suspect the burqa ban, for example, is not really about banning a one by one ft piece of fabric on a woman's face. Well it is, obviously, but I suspect more that the introduction of the legislation by the center-right wing party UMP was a ploy to get people to begin discussion about what it means to be French, what identity is, etc. The UMP has happily led this discussion, putting up Facebook and Party site forums, hosting events, working with NGOs and other groups to put out literature on the subject... I think in times of economic crisis, for example, the UMP has learned that discussing the fundamentals of a state keeps the attention OFF the state and onto the society, which had advantages politically... even though Sarkowy is running at a measly 32% approval (that's Bush low!), his party enjoyed widespread support on the burqa ban (which just passed the upper house of French Parliament on Tuesday), and looks poised to retain the presidency and the Congress, that is unless their opposition can get their acts together. Their opposition, the Parti Socialist (PS) has at least three candidates who have announced their candidacy for President, and four or more from other left wing parties (the Greens, the Communists, etc.) who have done the same.

Along with studying and interviewing, I've been able to do some sightseeing as well. I saw the Bastille Day military parade, where the French govt invited 12 former colonized African countries to march their troops down the Champs-Elysées. Many in the media saw this as France being nostalgiac for their colonial past, but I see this more as a positive sign that Sarkozy is willing to recognize the contributions Africans can make in the world; this obviously has implications for the Africans in his own country.

Bastille Day in Paris as planes shoot "le tricolore"-- blue, white and red smoke, into the air

African troops on Rue Madeleine

I also had the pleasure of seeing the fireworks show at the Eiffel Tower two nights ago. It was a wonderful display, and I got some great photos (well, you be the judge).

  

I am off today for two more interviews with students, to observe and interview Muslims doing their prayers this morning, but most importantly, to buy my mother a tablecloth and a winestopper at the largest flea market in the world.

Tonight is my second-to-last night here, sadly, but I am anxious to get home, see my family and friends, get pumped for the semester, and finally, start writing this damn thing. Thanks again for all of your words and support. See you aux Etats-Unis very soon!